Water intrusion between wood and deck may lead to fouling of the wood. It is recommended to control the deck periodically and repair non-tight areas before the whole deck is affected or part of the wood detaches from the deck due to the wood expansion with permanent water contact.
Deciding whether or not a wooden deck needs to be repaired is not always easy.
- First, it must be established that a joint has failed or the wood has been damaged enough to cause a problem. Each and every joint should be closely inspected. Any points at which there is a small gap or crack in the caulk should be marked with distinctive chalk.
- Second, the wood surface should also be closely examined for undue wear, gashes, splitting or splintering and should be marked with chalk in a similar way. However, parts or all of the damaged planks should be replaced, according to how badly they are damaged.
To replace damaged teak planks from the deck first completely remove the caulking from the joints around any planks that are to be removed.
Remove the damaged plank, taking care not to damage the substrate.
Remove any old adhesives, bedding or other foreign matter from the substrate and remove the jointing material from around the edge of neighbouring planks.
Use Sikaflex®-298 as a bedding compound and pre-treat the teak planks with Sika® Multiprimer Marine or Sika® Primer-290 DC prior to the application according (check pre-treatment chart). Caulk the joints with Sikaflex®-290 DC PRO the teak deck caulking material. Sand deck with a belt sander or flat plate after safe sanding time as indicated in the guideline.
To maintain the color and appearance of a new teak deck we recommend Sika’s Teak Maintenance System. It avoids damage of the caulking joint and is fully compatible with the Sikaflex®-290 DC PRO caulked teak decks.
Mix SikaTeak® C+B with water in a ratio of 1:3
Apply the mixture with a scrubbing brush or sponge
Leave for 10 minutes before rinsing the deck with water
Apply a small amount of SikaTeak® Oil Neutral on a clean cloth or a roller
Allow oil to penetrate the wood for ca. 30 minutes before removing excesses with a cloth
Winches, windlasses are subject to high mechanical stresses, fans, hatches and hatch covers to low stresses. To make sure your fittings are sealed strongly we recommend the following:
Bedding and sealing of fittings subject to high mechanical stresses
Deck fittings such as chain plates, winches and guide rollers must absorb very high dynamic stresses. For this purpose, a high-performance product, Sikaflex®-292i, our assembly adhesive, should be used in conjunction with additional mechanical fixings.
Bedding and sealing of fittings subject to minimal mechanical stresses
Deck fittings, such as ventilators and cover strips, need to be waterproofed but are not subject to high tensile or torsion stresses.
Check pre-treatment chart for surface preparation of substrates prior to application and follow application steps according to application guidelines.
You will find different variations and materials for rub rails such as GRP, paints, wood and moulded PVC, etc. Therefore a good surface preparation is key. Products needed depending on the rub rail material to be bonded.
To ensure a good final result follow the advice given in the pre-treatment chart. Common product for rub rail bonding is our assembly adhesive for marine Sikaflex®-292i or the STP based marine sealant Sikaflex®-591.
If you plan to bond a window, identify the material of the window you want to install first. Common window materials are organic glass (PMMA, PC etc.) or mineral glass. A specific adhesive must be selected according to the window material.
Use Sikaflex®-295 UV for bonding organic glass into your boat and Sikaflex®-296 as a direct glazing adhesive to bond mineral glass. In order to obtain satisfactory results, consult the pre-treatment chart and prepare the surface accordingly before bonding the window.